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Spa
Because spas have a relatively small amount of water to properly maintain the water chemistry in, it is easy for the chemistry to get out of balance. The addition of heat to the water also contribute to sudden changes in water balance. A common mistake spa owners often make is the thought that "we haven't used the spa much lately so I don't need to check and adjust the water balance", or they open the spa cover, look at the water and think "well, the water is clear and looks clean, the water chemistry must be fine". This is far from the truth because any time there is water in the spa, the water chemistry must be properly balanced otherwise damage to the spa can result.
One of the most important levels to properly maintain in the spa is the pH level. If the pH is out of balance, the water can still be crystal clear but it may be "acidic" or "basic (scale)" which can cause physical damage to the spa. Most of the time the pH will fall or lower itself instead of rise. Sanitizers, rain water, body oils and other contaminants generally have a lower pH level than 7.4 which causes the pH to naturally fall on its own. Proper water testing at least once per week can help the spa owner keep a close watch on the pH level in the spa water.
Expert Pool & Spa recommends the use of Sodium Dichlor as the primary sanitizer and the installation of an Ozonator is also highly recommended. Using this method, the Ozonator, if properly sized, installed and operated, will provide adequate sanitization of the spa water when the spa is not being used very often. The Dichlor is added after using the spa to "make up" for the added bacteria and waste introduced to the spa from the bathers. Ozone does not produce a "residual" of sanitizer in the water because the Ozone is introduced or injected into the water as a "bubble" and quickly floats to the surface where it dissipates into the air space above the spa water and stops sanitizing the water. Although there is usually a constant flow of bubbles from the ozone injection site inside the spa, Ozone itself carries a low dose of sanitization which is why the Ozonator works great at keeping the spa clean under low or no bather conditions as there is little if any bacteria or waste introduced to the body of water and the Ozonator can "keep up" with the small bacteria load. Having an Ozonator reduces the amount of Dichlor Chlorine needed to keep the spa properly sanitized because no chlorine is needed if the spa is not being used. An Ozonator does not eliminate the entire need for chlorine from the spa water which is a common misconception.
The use of Tri-Chlor or Tablet chlorine is not recommended because it must be added using a "Floater" or another device to contain and regulate the dissipation of the tablet chlorine. The problem with Tri-Chlor is that the device (chlorinator or floater) will not accurately dispense the proper amount of chlorine as the tablet dissolves even though there is usually some type of regulation device on the chlorinator and over-chlorination usually occurs. The amount of water in the spa is just too small to accurately use Tri-Chlor Tablet Chlorine. Tri-Chlor also has a naturally low pH level and will cause the pH level in the spa to fall quickly and if the water chemistry is not properly monitored, the low pH will cause damage to the spa. The use of Tablet Chlorine also will usually cause damage to the under-side of the spa cover because Floaters and Chlorinators usually cause over-chlorination in the spa and this causes a strong chlorine vapor in the air space between the spa water and the closed spa cover and the cover will suffer as a result.
Biguanide sanitizers barely work in a large swimming pool and are completely worthless in a spa. Biguanide sanitizers are a better marketing tool than a sanitizer. If you were unfortunate enough to have been recommended to use this sanitizer, here is how you get off of it and switch back to good old chlorine. Drain the spa, clean entire spa and clean spa cartridges thoroughly, fill spa back up but do not install filter cartridge(s) yet, run the freshly filled spa for an hour or so then drain and refill the spa again. Add 6-12oz of Oxy-Brite (Peroxy Monopersulfate or non-chlorine shock treatment) and let the spa circulate for a day or two then test for Biguanide residual. If there is still Biguanide in the water, you will need to add another 6-12oz of Oxy-Brite and repeat the process. If there is no Biguanide residual you can now add chlorine and maintain the new sanitizer system and related water chemistry parameters. When you are finally converted, take the remaining unused Biguanide chemicals back to your dealer and get your money back. While your there, ask any other customers you see about Biguanide and share your horror stories. Leave the store with a smile on your face because now you are free of the "marketing machine" and you will have clean clear water in your spa for much less money. Remember: Nothing cleans like chlorine!
It is necessary to Shock Treat your spa on a regular basis. The
preferred and recommended method is to use a Non-Chlorine Shock Treatment such
as GLB Oxy-Brite. Oxy-Brite is a non-chlorine shock that creates sparkling
water and shock treats all in one step. The powerful formula rids pool water of
contaminants that cause odor and irritation, and brightens and clears the water
with unique blue water brightening crystals. Your spa water should be shocked weekly or more frequently if the spa is used excessively. Shocking, also referred to as oxidation, is the process of removing organic materials such as body oils, cosmetics and lotions from the water, and also removes Chloramines or Used Chlorine from the water which produces the familiar Chlorine Smell. When these organic materials build up in the water, the water can become cloudy or hazy. When using chlorine as a sanitizer, water containing too many organic materials can also have a heavy chlorine odor. This indicates there is not enough effective sanitizer in the water and the water needs to be shocked. Shocking with Oxy-Brite or similar will oxidize the materials that may be causing foul odors, eye or skin irritation, or dull cloudy water. Shocking on a routine basis also increases the effectiveness of your sanitizer. Oxy-Brite can be added and the spa can be used immediately after adding which can be nice if you want to use the spa but the water is dull or cloudy. Spas using chlorine for their primary sanitizer can use granular chlorine to shock treat the water however, the use of chlorine as a shock treatment requires the chlorine level to exceed 10ppm to achieve proper oxidation levels but this high chlorine level can damage the spa or the spa cover and the bather must wait to use the spa until the chlorine level falls back down to the 2-3ppm range. This is why a non-chlorine shock treatment such as Oxy-Brite is used. This is also why you always smell chlorine when you stay at a hotel with a pool. The "pool guy" at the hotel thinks he is properly shock treating the pools water when he adds xx pounds of granular chlorine but he is not actually getting the chlorine levels above 10 ppm so oxidation does not occur and chloramines and organic waste builds up instead, causing reduced sanitizer performance and chlorine odor. Hotel pools should use Oxy-Brite for shock treatment for both pools and spas because it will oxidize the water, remove used chlorine (chloramines) and not raise the chlorine levels above the bather-useable range of 2-3 ppm. When ever I stay at a hotel, I always bring some Oxy-Brite and some Test Strips with me so I can be sure the spa is clean if I choose to use it!
Total Alkalinity acts as a buffer preventing the pH level from changing as additional chemicals or other substances are added into the spa water. The ideal Total Alkalinity range is between 80-120 ppm. A reading below this range will make it very difficult to stabilize the pH level of the water and corrosion and damage of spa surfaces and parts is possible. A reading above the recommended Total Alkalinity Level may increase pH levels and cause cloudy water, scaling, and decreased efficiency of the spa sanitizer. See Ph & Alkalinity under the Water Chemistry section.
Expert Pool & Spa uses and recommends GLB Rendezvous Protect Plus for the removal and prevention of stains and scale and rust in the spa water which usually comes from the source water supply or sometimes from a Gas Heater or other metal plumbing components which may be installed on your system. Should be added initially when filling the spa/hot tub and weekly for preventive maintenance.
Expert Pool & Spa uses and recommends the use of a Water Clarifier in the spa water to aid in filtration and also to add that "sparkle" to the water. We use GLB Rendezvous Spa Clarifier in our customers spas with great results. A water clarifier causes small micro particles in the water to collect with other small particles to become a bigger particle so the filter can catch the debris more effectively. When spa/hot tub is initially filled or returned to normal operation, add 1 oz. per 250 gallons of water. Use once a week, or whenever spa water appears unusually cloudy, add 2 oz. per 500 gallons of water. See Clarifiers for further information.
Foam or suds can and usually do occur in spa water from a variety of sources and having a De-Foamer on hand is a must. Foam can develop from hand lotions, make up, laundry detergent residual in swim suits and clothing, body oils, soaps and other contaminants which may be introduced into the spa. Expert Pool & Spa uses GLB Rendezvous Foam-Out and it is added "as needed" and just a squirt will dissipate the foam almost instantly. Sometimes you don't know there will be foam in the water until you turn on the spa jets or air blower and sometimes it can occur while your in the spa. It's not a bad idea to do a "foam check" before that big date or hot tub party to avoid the "mood killing" yucky foam...
Calcium Hardness is the amount of dissolved calcium in your spa water. A special test kit is required or you can have your local dealer check this for you. It is critical to have some calcium in your spa water. The proper calcium hardness level is between 150-400 ppm. Calcium Hardness levels above 400 ppm can cause scale build-up on spa surfaces and equipment. Low Calcium Hardness levels below 150 ppm can cause spa water to become highly corrosive, possibly damaging spa equipment and plumbing. In most areas the Calcium Hardness levels are fine in the source water and require no further adjustment. It is a good idea to periodically check the Calcium Hardness levels in your source water especially if you are a new spa owner so you will know if adjustment chemicals will be routinely needed.
There are Fragrances designed specifically for spa use which does not effect the water clarity or water chemistry. These products have a pleasing aroma and make the water inviting before, during and after spa use. A dose will last a few hours and leaves no residue or oils in the water or on the surface. We sell the GLB Rendezvous In-Spa Fragrances and our customers love this stuff. We also carry the small "trial size" of this product and is packaged similar to a ketchup packet. We call 'em "Stinky's"!
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~ Expert Pool & Spa, Inc. ~
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Water
Chemistry
